Kuta Beach 20 Years Ago!
It’s easy to think that Java doesn’t have that idyllic beach paradise. Being the most populated island and home to 60 percent of Indonesia’s 240 million people, it’s far from the idea of a peaceful stretch of sand. However, there are corners of the island where things haven’t changed much over the years. The beaches of Pangandaran and Batu Karas fall into this category and are said to be like Bali’s Kuta Beach 20 years ago; not overly commercialized. Pangandaran and Batu Karas are two adjacent beaches just south of West Java, which have catered to much of the beachy needs of the locals and just a handful of foreign travelers that make the effort to get here… It’s not the white powder sand of picture postcards, but it still brings the clean fresh smell of ocean and we reckon this off the beaten track gem will charm you into staying longer than you planned! So what is there more to know?
Places to stay
Most travelers will head straight to the beach area. There are many hostels, hotels and guesthouses available for all sorts of budgets, from 4-5 star hotels to cheap hostels and even home-stays, all just a walk away from the beach. The prices of some hostel are negotiable, especially during weekdays when the majority of Indonesian tourists are in work – so make sure you try your luck!
Sunset over Pangandaran Beach
Batu Karas Beach
Batu Karas Beach is less commercialized. Much of the restaurants, hotels, and surfboard rentals, are available on the west corner of the beach. All of these establishments support visitors that occupy the small secluded beach on the end of the road. The eastern side of the beach provides a quieter and more peaceful ambiance. Some mid range accommodations are available such as The Cove, which has limited rooms for the backpacking surfers, the Hunting Hi & Lo, and Vila Monyet, which are about IDR 300,000-500,000 /room/night. Backpacker budget friendly accomodations are also available around the area with range of IDR 100,000 – 1,000,000 /room/night.
Note: The most important thing is to see the room before negotiating. Then you can the best room that suits you!
Things to do in Pangandaran and Batu Karas:
Where there are beaches, there usually are people in the water. Both Pangandaran and Batu Karas Beach can facilitate your desire for a good splash! The sand is a dark brown color but the water is still as clean as any beach. However, it might be good to note that these beaches open up to the Indian Ocean where waves can be pretty rough at times and at certain spots. Local lifeguards, although limited, will be around to put up signs and let visitors know where it’s safe to swim.
Surf the Waves!
Both beaches are ideal for surfing. Annual surfing competitions are usually held at the Pangandaran Beach and several times at Batu Karas. Waves can be the playground for newbies that are grabbing a board for the first time. There are several local surf schools that can help you jump on the board and ride the beginners’ waves. During different seasons, each beach can challenge a more intermediate bunch of surfers. Boards are also available for rent, so all you need is about IDR 150,000 /day and some haggling skills, so you can score a lower price. Which beach is best for surfing is debatable. Each beach has their own surf community, which can be found hanging around the beach and approached for more information.
Body rafting at Green Canyon
Somewhere in between both Pangandaran and Batu Karas, lies ‘Cukang Taneuh’, which translates to hole in the soil. It’s known more as the Green Canyon as people experience swimming and boating in a canyon with green surrounding of foliage and moss.
The Green Canyon, known in Indonesian as ‘Cukang Taneuh’ or ‘hole in the soil’
- Long route through the Green Canyon (2-4 hours): To do this route, you must register with an official tour organizer that will organize the equipment, the transport to the upstream location, and guides to help you maneuver through the river. Once geared up with helmet, life jacket, shin guards, you will be ready to travel upstream (usually by truck) to then walk down to the entry point. From here on it’ll be about floating downstream and making a few climbs over rocks to get to the main river gate. During the dry season, the river water will be a greenish color with a mild current taking about four hours. During wet season, river water would be a brownish color from rain run-off with stronger currents, and the journey would take about two hours and end at the Cukang Taneuh gate. Packages are available from local organizers located not far from the Cukang Taneuh gate with prices of about USD 20 per person, which include lunch, safety gear, guides, transport to starting point, and insurance.
- Short route (Cukang Taneuh): The shorter route is the most common route. From the main gate, visitors need to rent the local boat to travel upstream to the cave opening. It’s a pleasant 20 minutes or so trip along vegetated canyons. Once at the gate, visitors can climb up and swim upstream through the beautiful tight canyon and even jump of the seven meter rock located halfway up. Swimming upstream is highly recommended, especially if you’ve reached this point. The best time to visit is during dry season (May-September). You’ll need to hire a boat to reach the rock gate for about USD 13 at the official gate, which can be shared amongst six people.
Tips for visiting the canyon:
- Weekends and national holidays are packed with holidaying locals. To enjoy the best of Green Canyon, visit during weekdays.
- Having surfing or diving booties is helpful.
This nature reserve is located on the easter side of Pangandaran. There’s a lot of amazing flora and fauna spread amongst almost 500 hectares of the reserve. Wild deer can be seen around the reserve accommodation area and wild monkeys in almost all areas of the reserve. Beware of your belongings, though. These monkeys are adorable, but very cheeky! They will steal and grab any dangling belongings. Aside to getting close to the greens of nature, you can also visit some of the caves within the nature reserve. The most common caves are the Goa (cave) Lanang, Goa Rengganis, Goa Sumur Mudal, and Goa Miring. No heavy caving equipments are required but a flash light can help. Each cave would request a small donation so prepare your cash on site.
- Bus: Direct buses to Pangandaran are available from most major cities in Java such as Jakarta, Bandung and Yogyakarta. Nine hours on the public night buses are the best option as you can save up on your accommodation budget. Fares are about USD 10 / pax for a bus with AC and reclining seat. Economy buses cost less. Additional trips to Batu Karas on the public bus would cost about USD 3. Motor taxis or ojeks are available for about USD 5 but will take you to your end destination.
- Car Rent: Car rentals are possible from bigger cities, which cost about USD 60 (excluding fuel or a local driver). This option is best if you want travel often between beaches or if you’re bringing your own surf board.
- Plane: If you’re coming in from Jakarta and want to head straight to Pangandaran you can hop on the Susi Air flight. The airlines does this route every morning for USD 55 / pax and tickets can be purchased through Susi Air, which flies out from Halim Perdana Kusuma Airport, Jakarta.
Where to go next?
- Bandung: Bandung is the capital city of the West Java province. It’s located up in the mountains and offers a cooler climate compared to hot humid air of the south coast. For the Indonesians, Bandung is most known for its fashion shopping and delicious local food. However, for foreign travelers, Bandung is awesome for its easily accessed crater Tangkuban Parahu and its local traditional instrument, the Angklung of the Saung Mang Udjo studio.
- Yogyakarta: This city is one of the most visited cities in Indonesia by travelers from all over the world. It’s both backpacker and high-end tourist friendly. Yogyakarta offers much tradition in its day-to-day existence. Aside from the obvious cultural events and venues such as the Candi Prambanan, the palace or keraton, and gateway to Candi Borobudur, the city runs on a slow pace as does its people. It’s also a hub for art and crafts, including silver goods and traditional cloth, batik. All in all, a must-visit for backpackers to Indonesia!
About the Writer: This destination page was written by Indonesian native, Murni Amalia (Mumun), who along with her friend Vira run the website Indohoy to help travellers discover the hidden secrets of their fascinating country. (As well as keeping up with their daily jobs!) On their website, there is loads of valuable information (from a local perspective) for backpackers who are looking to travel to Indonesia, especially those off the beaten track places that only locals know about.