The tenth largest island in Indonesia, Flores is located in the East Nusa Tenggara region. Many travellers who set foot on the island simply use it as a base to explore the world-famous Komodo National Park, which sits just off the west coast, before leaving immediately after.
Those who take the time to venture beyond Labuan Bajo, Flores’ most well-known town, are rewarded with untouched landscape, breathtaking crater lakes, cultural villages and deserted beaches. If you’re considering travelling through Flores, read on to find out all you need to know about this underrated Indonesian island.
Flores Map and Resources
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- 🇮🇩 Indonesia Travel Guide
- 💵 Cost of Backpacking in Indonesia
- 📍 Nearby places: Komodo National Park | Sumbawa | Sulawesi
- 🐉 Must do activity: Komodo National Park Tour
Backpacking Flores, Indonesia – Travel Guide 🧳
Best Time to Visit Flores, Indonesia ☀️
The tropical climate in Indonesia means that temperatures are consistently warm year-round. To make the most of the island, it’s best to visit Flores between April and October, which is the dry season.
The wet season, from November to March, creates lush, green landscapes. However, the rain can make travel less enjoyable and heavy downpours may render some roads impassable.
Fun Flower Fact 🌸
The name Flores comes from the Portuguese word for ‘Flowers’. In the early 16th century the Portuguese came across the island and named it Cabo de Flores (Cape of Flowers) after the flamboyant flowers of the royal poinciana tree that grew in abundance on the island’s eastern cape. Today, the island is better known for its green countryside than the bright red blooms.
Where to Stay in Flores, Indonesia 🛏️
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- Labuan Bajo – The gateway to Komodo National Park and the most visited town on Flores.
- Ruteng – A small village in a scenic location and a good base for several must-visit places, including the spider web rice fields, Hobbit Cave and Waerebo Traditional Village.
- Bajawa – A great place to enjoy the natural surroundings and visit traditional Ngada villages.
- Ende – Often used as an entry/exit point for Flores trips, especially by those wanting to visit Kelimutu Volcano.
- Maumere – An alternative start and end point for Flores itineraries is this seaside city that offers opportunities for snorkelling, beach bumming and hiking.
Best Accommodation in Flores
LABUAN BAJO
Budget: Bajo Bunkhouse has small cosy dorms with just four beds. There are mixed and female-only rooms and the entire property is sparklingly clean!
Mid-Range: Seaesta Komodo Hostel & Hotel is a pretty property reminiscent of a Greek villa. It has dorms and private rooms and is excellent value for money. The rooftop restaurant serves up local and Western food and drinks with a fantastic view.
Higher-End: Elang Hillside Bamboo Villas are located on a hillside and have excellent sea views. Cute and cosy, they are a great option for those looking for an extra comfortable stay with a free airport shuttle included.
“Seaesta remains one of my favourite hostels of my travels. The design makes it feel upscale and the pool, restaurant and bar area had a great vibe and amazing views!” Lisa Barham, Writer at South East Asia Backpacker
RUTENG
Budget: Sun Rice Homestay provides basic private rooms in a beautiful setting with views over rice fields. The sunrise tour offered by the hosts is highly recommended and the home-cooked food is tasty too!
Mid-Range: Mama’s Homestay Ruteng is a homely and welcoming place with clean, comfortable rooms and a small onsite cafe. Guests rave about the incredibly friendly staff and the garden is a pretty and peaceful place to relax.
Higher-End: Ara Garden Inn has spacious rooms set in green and tranquil gardens. The property also offers yoga classes and spa services – ideal for those looking for a wellness escape.
BAJAWA
Budget: Cinnamon Guest House has budget-friendly digs in a central location. Guests can make use of the shared lounge and garden, and any visitors comment on the cleanliness and welcoming staff.
Mid-Range: Every room at Bajawa-Roo Hotel has a balcony with a mountain view. The rooftop dining area also provides good views over Bajawa Town. The staff are highly rated by guests.
Higher-End: The gorgeous bungalows at Manulalu Jungle are very spacious and have incredible views over jungle and Mount Inerie. The luxurious rooms also have balconies with day-beds for soaking up the scenery. There’s an onsite bar and restaurant so there’s no need to leave (and who would want to with these views?).
ENDE
Budget: The space age-y capsules at Apollo Capsule Hotel feel a bit incongruous in Flores, but for privacy and comfort you can’t go wrong for the price. It’s also conveniently located within walking distance from the airport.
Mid-Range: Just off the Trans-Flores Highway and a stone’s throw from Kelimutu, Filomena Lodge is in an excellent location for anyone wanting to visit the volcano’s tri-coloured lakes. A delicious breakfast and beautiful views are included.
Higher-End: The stylish Flores Passport House provides cosy rooms, a TV with Netflix, a terrace, swimming pool, outdoor fireplace and breakfast – basically anything you could want during a stay in Ende!
MAUMERE
Budget: Pantai Paris Homestay offers basic beachside accommodation. Guests appreciate the large rooms, comfy beds and helpful staff.
Mid-Range: Budi Sun Resort has cosy bungalows, a pool and a restaurant, all just steps from the beach. Visitors enjoy the peaceful location and tasty food.
Higher-End: Creatures of comfort will enjoy the lovely beachside bungalows set among trees at Amrita Maumere Resort. With immaculate rooms, beautiful surroundings and a great snorkelling beach on your doorstep, there’s nothing not to like about this home-from-home.
A Note on Religion ⛪️
On Flores, 70% of the population is Catholic, which is a stark contrast to most of the rest of Indonesia, which is predominantly Muslim (with the notable exception of Bali, which is Hindu). Reportedly, there are more than 2,700 churches on the island!
Things to Do in Flores, Indonesia 🌋
1. Spot a Dragon at Komodo National Park 🐉
Flores’s biggest draw is its proximity to one of the most amazing destinations in Indonesia. Just off the island’s west coast lies Komodo National Park, home to glorious scenery, uninhabited islands and the biggest reptile on the planet, the magnificent Komodo dragon.
As well as spotting these incredible creatures, you can snorkel with manta rays, relax on a pink beach and hike on volcanic islands on a tour of the park. Spending a few days cruising around the islands is the best way to enjoy all there is to see (check out this 3-day Komodo sailing trip!). However, if you’re short on time (or cash) this one-day speedboat tour by Labaho may just be perfect for you!
“The Komodo National Park is an awe-inspiring place and absolutely should not be missed when in Indonesia! The wildlife, the scenery, the dazzling blue sea – everything was spectacular!” Lisa Barham, Writer at Southeast Asia Backpacker
2. Dive With Manta Rays 🤿
The underwater world of Komodo National Park is as fascinating as its islands, and the area is known as one of the best diving destinations on the planet. The majestic manta rays are the big draw but there’s plenty more to see, including reef sharks, dolphins, barracudas, octopuses, seahorses and over 200 species of coral with an abundance of tropical fish.
Read about one traveller’s experience diving in Komodo National Park here.
3. See the Tri-Coloured Lakes at Kelimutu 🌋
In the middle of this long, narrow island lies Kelimutu, a volcano with three crater lakes each of a different colour. Mysteriously, the lakes change colour and have been known to be white, green, blue, brown, red and black. The timing of the colour changes is unpredictable, but it’s thought to be due to gases that are released through vents in the volcano. The lakes are sacred to the local Lio people who believe them to be the resting place of the dead.
4. Visit Waerebo Traditional Village 🛖
Waerebo (or Wae Rebo) is a small isolated village surrounded by mountains and lush jungle and only accessible via foot, so you’ll need to be prepared for a 3-hour trek to get here! Once you’ve regained your breath and soaked up the jaw-dropping views, you can learn about the Manggarai culture and admire the unique conical houses called Mbaru Niang. Once common in the region, Waerebo is now the only place to maintain these traditional homes.
5. Admire the Spider Web Rice Fields 🕸️
If you’ve travelled anywhere in Southeast Asia you’ve probably seen a rice field or two, but it’s unlikely you’ve seen any like those on Flores. The uniquely shaped rice fields on this island resemble a giant spider’s web. The design was implemented to allow the communal fields to be divided fairly between the families of the local village. The best example can be seen at Cancar in the west of Flores, 20 km outside of Ruteng.
6. Witness a Caci Dance 🤺
The Manggarai people of western Flores are known for their traditional dance, called Caci. A ritual dance fight using whips, shields and sticks, it is performed by two men accompanied by drum beats.
7. Swim in Sano Nggoang Lake 🏊🏻♀️
Get off the beaten track on a day trip from Labuan Bajo to Sano Nggoang Lake, the largest crater lake in East Nusa Tenggara. It’s also the deepest volcanic lake in the world with depths up to 600m! Set among forest miles off the Trans-Flores Highway, the lake is a peaceful place to get away from it all. Spend some time enjoying the tranquillity with a swim in the waters, or if you’re feeling active, go for a hike around the lake.
8. Spend a Few Days in Bajawa 🏞️
Located in the middle of the island, Bajawa is known as the cultural centre of Flores. The small mountainous town is backed by the imposing Mount Inerie. It’s a great place to base yourself for enjoying the surrounding nature, including waterfalls and hot springs, such as the picturesque Soa Mengeruda Hot Spring. There’s also plenty of culture to soak up, and a visit to a Ngada village with their thatched houses and monoliths is a fascinating experience. Bena Traditional Village is the most popular.
9. Learn About Human Evolution at Liang Bua Cave 🦴
For anyone interested in paleoanthropology (and who isn’t?!) Liang Bua Cave is a must-visit. In 2003, fossils of a previously unknown human species were discovered in the cave. Named Homo floresiensis after the island, they are thought to have lived around 50,000–100,000 years ago. Owing to their small stature (they only grew to just over one metre), the species have been nicknamed ‘hobbit’, and the cave is more commonly referred to as The Hobbit Cave. For some extra context, visit the nearby Liang Bua Museum.
10. Take a Walk Along Blue Stone Beach 💎
Blue Stone Beach (or Pantai Batu Biru in the Bahasa language) is on the south coast of Flores in the centre of the island, not far from Ende. Here, the shore is covered in blue and turquoise-tinted pebbles. It’s unclear how this geological oddity was created, but it’s likely due to volcanic activity. The Trans-Flores Highway passes right by the beach so it’s worth a stop off if you’re travelling to or from Ende.
11. Explore 17 Islands National Park 🏝️
The 17 Islands National Park (also known as the 17 Islands Marine Park) is situated off the central north coast of Flores. While it’s nowhere near as famous as Komodo National Park (and lacks the dragons!) it’s still a stunning area for idyllic-island hopping and snorkelling. Plus, as it’s an off-the-beaten-track destination, you may find that you have some of the spots all to yourself!
12. Relax on Koka Beach 🏖️
Koka Beach on Flores’ south coast is one of the most beautiful beaches on the island. It’s a sweeping crescent of powdery sand backed by hills and is the perfect place to spend a few hours relaxing and swimming.
13. Trek Up Mount Inerie 🥾
If you’re not content with enjoying the beautiful views of Mount Inerie from afar, try tackling the trek to the summit (2,245 metres above sea level). It’s a rocky 3–4 hour ascent and best attempted with a guide before dawn to enjoy the sunrise from the peak.
Food and Drink in Flores, Indonesia 🍚
In Labuan Bajo there’s an assortment of eateries catering to most tastes. Traditional Indonesian food with a twist is served up at La Moringa and other local eats are to be had at Warung Warung and the Fish Market. Made In Italy satisfies cravings for pizza and pasta and La Taqueria serves mouth-watering Mexican meals.
For yummy baked goods and coffee head to the fabulously named Komodough. Seaesta Hostel & Hotel have a varied menu with local, Asian and Western choices, plus some delectable drinks served up at their rooftop bar.
Further afield, you’ll be hard-pressed to find much other than warungs (local family-run restaurants). PariKoro Resto in Ende is highly rated, as are Maibeth Restaurant in Bajawa, and Cafe Agape and Rumah Makan Cha Cha in Ruteng. Mokka Coffee is a cute little cafe serving some good java in Ende.
Getting Around Flores, Indonesia 🛵
Flores is crossed by the long and winding road known as the Trans-Flores Highway, making it fairly easy to travel from one end of this long island to the other. Be warned that beyond the highway, roads can be in varying states of (dis)repair and often make for slow progress.
The most independent way to get around the island is by hiring a scooter. This means you can explore places at your own pace and go wherever the wind takes you. However, with long distances and (sometimes) rough roads, this can be a tiring way to get around if you plan to travel around the whole island.
The most budget-friendly mode of transport is public bus, but the cheap price tag comes at the expense of time and comfort. The schedule can be unreliable (as with many places in Southeast Asia!) and the vehicles crowded (ditto) so allow plenty of time and patience when moving from place to place. While buses connect the major towns, it can be difficult to access locations that are further away from the main roads by public transport.
Another option is to hire a private driver. While this will be the most expensive way to travel, it’s also the most convenient and comfortable. Not only will you be able to get to all the places you want to visit with ease, but your driver may also be able to recommend lesser-known places and also act as an interpreter if needed – always a useful thing to have!
How to Get to Flores, Indonesia ✈️
Most visitors will fly into Flores, to either Labuan Bajo (in the west), Ende (roughly central) or Maumere (in the east), depending on which direction they want to traverse the island.
It’s possible to fly to Labuan Bajo from Bali (around 1 hour) and Jakarta (around 2 hours). Flights to Ende and Maumere transit through Labuan Bajo.
There is also an overland option by bus from Lombok through Sumbawa. Be warned this is an arduous 24-hour journey! It’s also possible to arrive at Labuan Bajo by sea via the four-day Lombok–Flores boat trip.
Where to Go Next: ⛵️
Sulawesi: For the adventurous traveller, the little-visited island of Sulawesi awaits with its diverse cultures and fascinating but challenging topography.
West Timor: Head even further off the beaten path with a visit to Timor. There are direct flights between Maumere (Flores) and Kupang (Timor).
Lombok: Set sail on a four-day adventure across the sea to Lombok, where you can surf, discover rice fields and jungle or relax on the sandy, uncrowded beaches.
Contributors:
South East Asia Backpacker is a ‘travel diary for everyone’. This article has been written with the help of backpackers and local experts. We would like to thank…
🙏 Mike Crome | South East Asia Backpacker Contributor
🙏 Yovita | Labaho Tour
Lisa Barham
Having always dreamt of travelling the world, Lisa finally decided to follow that dream in her mid-thirties when she left her nine-to-five in London for life on the road. After trekking to Everest Base Camp in Nepal and learning to surf in Sri Lanka, she headed for wondrous Southeast Asia, where she can currently be found solo backpacking, navigating through life and unfamiliar streets.
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