The sleepy border town of Huay Xai sometimes spelt Houayxay, is many travellers’ introduction to Laos. Just a stone’s throw from Thailand’s Chiang Khong, it is one of the most visited border towns in the country, frequently used by those jumping on board the slow boat to Luang Prabang or zip lining through the forests of Nam Kan National Park with the Gibbon Experience.
As it is generally not possible to cross the border from Thailand to Laos and embark on the above adventures on the same day, Huay Xai is a place where travellers may find themselves killing time. If you’re one such traveller, listen up. We’ve come to know Huay Xai pretty well as of late, using it as a base for both of the above adventures. Keep reading for everything you need to know about filling your time in this riverside border town.
Backpacking Huay Xai, Laos – Travel Guide
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Huay Xai Map and Resources
MORE INFO: (opens in a new tab)
- 🇱🇦 Laos Backpacking Guide
- 💰 Cost of Travel in Laos
- 📍 Nearby places: Chiang Khong | Luang Namtha | Pak Beng
- 🛶 Must-do activity: Cruise the Mekong to Luang Prabang
Best Time to Visit Huay Xai
Tourism in Huay Xai is largely centred around the slow boat. The dry season stretches from around October/November until February/March. The dry season is also the best time to do the second most popular activity in the area, the Gibbon Experience. As these tours involve trekking, it is better to go during the dry season, owing to terrain conditions.

In April and May, it gets very hot and the water level of the Mekong River drops due to lack of rain. June, July and August bring heavy downpours which can disrupt the slow boat schedule. Expect fewer departures and some services (usually the more premium cruises) to cease running if the weather is too bad.
Where to Stay in Huay Xai
Most of the accommodation is located along the main strip, with one notable offering close to the slow boat pier. While there are a couple of highly rated options, most digs offer no-frills, basic rooms. Don’t expect luxury here!
For a great budget-friendly offering, Little Hostel is a great choice. Offering dorm rooms only, this is the perfect place for solo travellers looking for a base in the middle of town. The staff can assist with everything from booking onward travel to doing laundry.
1 Min to Slow Boat Guesthouse $$
The most popular guesthouse in the area (for obvious reasons) is the aptly named 1 Min to Slow Boat Guesthouse. While most travellers stay here only one night before catching the boat the next day, the guesthouse is wonderful, especially when compared to the general standard of accommodation in the area. The owner Nok is a brilliant host, arranging SIM cards and providing useful tips for travellers.

“Nok is one of the best hosts I have ever met. She did everything she could to help me out when I had problems with my local SIM and gave me loads of recommendations for things to do in the area. I would return to her guesthouse in a heartbeat!” – Sheree, Editor at South East Asia Backpacker
This popular hostel is a good choice for both solo backpackers and couples, as there is a range of rooms. It is well-rated for its friendly staff and balcony views of the Mekong. As well as providing accommodation, all their staff speak English, making it easy to organise your trip.
Smack bang in the middle of town you’ll find Thadan Guesthouse. With great views of the Mekong, it is a great place to set up in the thick of things. Despite this, some reviews say the rooms could do with a little TLC but are perfectly adequate for a short stay.
Things to Do in Huay Xai
1. Take the Slow Boat
Huay Xai is best known for being the jumping-off point for the slow boat. If the basic slow boat is what you’re after, you can buy your tickets at your accommodation or from the slow boat pier office. You don’t usually need to do this too far in advance. The price is around 200,000 kip to Pakbeng and 300,000 kip (approx. $9-15USD) to Luang Prabang.

Bear in mind that you cannot cross the border into Laos on the same day that you get the standard slow boat. The local slow boat is the cheapest way to get to Luang Prabang and the journey can be very cramped and uncomfortable. We’d only recommend this to the most hardy travellers!
If you’d prefer to enjoy all of the sights but in more comfort, a premium cruise is definitely the way to go. We recommend Nagi of Mekong for their excellent safety record, regular refreshments and spacious layout. Many of these premium slow boat companies offer pick-up from your guesthouse in Chiang Khong, meaning that you can cross the border the same day that you embark on your cruise. This is a great time-saver if you’re on a tight schedule.
- Spacious & comfortable.
- Boats regularly serviced. Life vests for every passenger.
- Freshly cooked lunches & refreshments.
- 1 night's accommodation in Pak Beng.
2. Visit the Market
There is a market around a five-minute walk from the slow boat pier. It opens at 2 pm (Laos time!) and is a great place to grab some fresh fruit.

3. Stroll Along the Riverside
There is a scenic path linking the slow boat pier to the middle of town. While the surface is a little rough and you will likely be forced off the path by the occasional scooter (which says everything you need to know about the road quality!), it provides nice views of the river.

4. Enjoy a BeerLao in a Rooftop Bar at Sunset
There are a few rooftop bars in town where you can enjoy the sunset. Toast to your Laotian adventure with the local beer, BeerLao!

5. Explore Fort Carnot
This former army fort was built by the French around 1900. It was selected for its important military location overlooking the Mekong but didn’t see much action. Once Laos gained its independence, the Royal Lao Army reclaimed the site. It is an interesting spot but perhaps the most impressive thing about a visit here is the incredible views of the surrounding scenery. There are also some weird sculptures… but it seems no one really knows why they are here!

6. Hike Up to the Temple
There are a few temples scattered across town but the easiest one to reach sits directly above the main strip. Ascend the stairs and take in the opulence of this Buddhist site. You’ll likely see plenty of monks wandering around here – there is a secondary school located here too.

7. Zipline With the Gibbon Experience
One of the most popular things to do in Huay Xai is to embark on a tour with the Gibbon Experience. Offering 2 or 3-day tours which combine trekking, nature spotting and zip lining through the Nam Kan National Park, they are in high demand––for the 3-day tour, you’ll need to reserve your spot at least a couple of months in advance (during the high season)! The coolest thing? These tours allow you to stay overnight in the world’s tallest tree houses!

Food and Drink in Huay Xai
The Nine Cafe is a great choice looking for an authentic Laotian experience. They offer a range of local cuisine and notably traditional Lao BBQ, ideal for groups. You cook your own meat at the table in a kind of hotpot, a fun bonding experience.

Close to the slow boat pier, check out Phutsaraphone Restaurant for your breakfast. It is possible to preorder the night before so that you don’t have to wait too long before your slow boat the following morning.
Cloud 9 Kitchen offers a range of easy breakfast options and decent coffee. Dream Bakery is the most popular place for international options, offering great bread and pastries. Bar How? is pretty much the only option for nightlife and offers the usual backpacker fare and plenty of drinks to get the conversation flowing.
Getting Around Huay Xai
Huay Xai is really small so you can get around on foot. Temperatures are also a little lower than elsewhere so walking is generally pretty comfortable. It is also possible to hire motorcycles but in our opinion, they are not needed to get around town.

How to Get to Huay Xai
From Thailand:
Travellers heading from Thailand cross the border from Chiang Khong. Visa on arrival is available for most citizens. While the border is open from 8:00-20:00, you may be charged an additional ‘out of hours’ fee at different points during the day to process your visa. This is usually around 40THB per person and cannot be avoided. It essentially applies whenever they deem you to be crossing at a more inconvenient time: think too early, too late, around lunchtime, during their favourite soap opera, etc.
Once you have your visa, you need to get to town. Songthaews wait outside the immigration office. Journeys to your accommodation should be around 100THB per person, however, many of these guys are notorious scammers and will try and get you to pay up to 250THB per person to make the short journey. We recommend joining a group of travellers who are also ready to leave and tackling the negotiating as a team.

From Elsewhere in Laos:
The slow boat departs from Luang Prabang for Huay Xai although taking the boat in this direction is more unusual. Alternatively, plenty of the main tourist destinations in the north of the country offer minivan transfers to the town.
Where to Go Next:
- Chiang Mai (Thailand): Cross the border to Chiang Khong to make your way to Thailand’s second-largest city. Head here for jungle trekking, ethical elephant experiences and all the vegan cuisine you could wish for!
- Luang Namtha: It takes around 3-4 hours to get to Luang Namtha. While this is an up-and-coming area on the Laos tourist map, it is still a destination that few international tourists make it to. Head here for jungle trekking and other adventure activities.
- Nong Khiaw: Known for its sweeping mountain landscapes, Nong Khiaw exemplifies the beauty so often pictured when Laos is discussed. Head here for trekking, lazy days and lots of viewpoints.