When it comes to Thai islands popular with vacationers, Koh Samui is surely at the top of the list. The most tourist-friendly of the islands in the Gulf of Thailand, Koh Samui is packed with bars, restaurants, dispensaries and a huge choice of nightlife.
The influx of holidaymakers means that Koh Samui feels quite Westernised and is more expensive than other islands, attracting a somewhat older crowd. Those looking for spas, beach clubs and retreats will adore Koh Samui for its beautiful sands and laidback vibe.
If you’re a traveller who likes more off-the-beaten-track places, don’t write off Koh Samui just yet. There’s plenty for those who take the path less trodden. After spending three weeks on the island, I can tell you honestly what’s worth it and what isn’t. You’ll find everything Koh Samui here, from the good to the bad and the downright ugly!
Koh Samui Map & Resources 🏝️
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Koh Samui, Thailand – Backpacking Guide 🇹🇭
Best Time to Visit Koh Samui, Thailand ☀️
December to March is the best time to visit Koh Samui if you seek sun, sea and sand. This is the dry season when temperatures are at their most comfortable. If your trip to Koh Samui falls outside these months, don’t fret. You can still enjoy the beaches during the rainy season, just be prepared for an hour or two of rain a day and keep your plans flexible.
The benefit of visiting during the off-season is that there are fewer crowds which means lower prices for accommodation and less competition for beds. You can often bag heavily reduced luxury hotel stays or retreats during this time.
Where to Stay in Koh Samui, Thailand 🏨
There are four popular areas to stay in Koh Samui. Each caters to a different type of traveller, both in regard to interests and budget.
Chaweng
The liveliest and most crowded spot in Koh Samui is Chaweng. It is famous for its abundance of hotels, bars, restaurants and buzzing 24-hour nightlife scene. It is the neighbourhood of choice for many first-time visitors to Koh Samui, as well as those who are visiting the island to party.
There is a range of accommodations on offer in this part of Koh Samui, with hostels to suit the hedonists and bougie resorts for the spa seekers.
Lamai
Lamai is a very popular area, although still quieter than Chaweng. It is predominantly an expat hub but attracts a range of tourists, from those marrying in the beachside resorts to long-stay digital nomads. Lamai is also home to the beautiful Lamai Beach, which is a stunning stretch of sand boasting numerous beach bars.
Lamai is a popular part of the island for those embarking on fitness programmes or Muay Thai training packages. If you’re looking to make Lamai your Koh Samui base, check out this in-depth guide to the area.
Bophut
Located along the northern coast of Koh Samui, Bophut is a popular area among vacationing families who value public transport connections and airport proximity. Arguably the most historic part of the island, it is also home to the Fisherman’s Village. Despite this, you still have easy access to many tourist amenities.
Maenam
For budget-friendly beachfront accommodation, look no further than Maenam, located in the north of the island. This quiet area is popular among backpackers, particularly couples looking to get away from the island’s party scene.
While there are a few luxury resorts in this area, no-frills beach bungalows are the name of the game here.
Top Accommodation in Koh Samui
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Thai Fight Hotel is the place for Muay Thai enthusiasts who are starting to dabble in the sport. Set along the main ring road in Lamai, it is a premium offering boasting a huge swimming pool, free beginner Muay Thai classes and small chalets, complete with balcony bathtubs.
Lub D Chaweng Beach is a good value-for-money place to stay for backpackers; clean and friendly with incredibly comfy beds. There is a pool on site which is a great place to meet people. They also host events such as pub crawls and trivia nights, meaning you’ll never be stuck for fun things to do!
KoHabitat Samui receives rave reviews from all who stay there, mainly due to the friendly and welcoming hosts. It’s slightly more expensive than your usual hostel but it’s well worth checking out. Beds come with privacy curtains and individual lockers.
If you feel like splashing out, Bo Phut Resort and Spa lets you live a life of luxury right on the beach. This excellent luxury option is close to the Fisherman’s Village and within walking distance of a range of amenities.
Things to Do in Koh Samui, Thailand 🏖️
1. Visit Ang Thong Marine Park
Around an hour from Samui by speedboat is Ang Thong National Marine Park. This world-renowned archipelago is believed to have inspired the Alex Garland cult classic, The Beach. Famous for its azure waters, the snorkelling and diving here are excellent.
The best way to explore the many inlets and reefs around the park is by sea kayaking. The park boasts a spectacular inland lake and caves which also makes it a great spot for a bit of hiking. It is not possible to take public transport to Ang Thong, so if you want to visit you will have to embark on a tour. These cost around 1,250THB per person (approx. $34USD) and last all day.
2. Be a Beach Bum
The beaches on Koh Samui (and there are plenty of them!) are generally clean and comfortable, making them the perfect location to unwind with a good book. Keep an eye out for any signage on the beach as jellyfish can wash up at certain times of the year.
There are a range of excellent beaches on Koh Samui, some of the best are Lamai Beach, Maenam Beach, Silver Beach, Crystal Beach and Choeng Mon Beach. If you are staying at one of the more expensive resorts on the island, there is every chance your accommodation may come with its own stretch of sand so make sure you make the most of it!
“Crystal Beach is special. I’ve swum a lot of places in my life — but this is one of the cosiest beaches I’ve ever seen. It’s the kind of place that makes you want to leave everything else behind.”
Kai, Contributor at South East Asia Backpacker
Beach bars are usually just a stone’s throw away from golden sands, so you can enjoy happy hour deals and fireshows from your favourite spot. As well as this, massages are available at many coastal spots across the island.
Pig Island 🐽
The nearby Pig Island, known locally as Koh Madsum, is becoming a popular day trip for travellers from Koh Samui. Essentially Thailand’s answer to the popular Pig Beach in the Bahamas, Pig Island is an attraction that seems to have divided travellers. Many claim the island itself is crowded and dirty. They also claim that pigs and dogs are bred specifically to please visiting tourists and are not well cared for. Others tout it as one of the best trips on Koh Samui for animal lovers. Do your research before visiting to decide if this is an attraction you’d be happy to endorse. Trips begin at around 1,200THB per person (approx. $33USD).
3. Take a TEFL Course
Koh Samui is home to one of Thailand’s most popular TEFL (Teaching English as a Foreign Language) Courses. Located in the northeast corner of the island, in the village of Choeng Mon, Destination TEFL Samui is an inspiring place where hundreds of students graduate every year as qualified English teachers. If you’re interested in working abroad, TEFL is a great way to make that happen!
4. Train at a Muay Thai Camp
Muay Thai is Thailand’s national sport. Also known as the ‘Art of Eight Limbs’, this ancient martial art has boomed in popularity over recent years, with crowds of travellers flocking to the country to enrol on Muay Thai retreats.
Koh Samui is full of esteemed Muay Thai camps offering training packages to novices and pros alike. With world-class trainers, state-of-the-art facilities and some of the best beaches in Asia, it is easy to see why so many people head to Koh Samui to train.
If you prefer not to be beaten up on your holidays, you can still get involved from a safe distance. Head to one of the island’s stadiums to see Thai boxing in all its glory. An evening at a fight offers a great chance to delve into the culture, even on the most touristy of islands.
5. Try Some Water Sports
If lying on a tropical beach is not fun-filled enough for you, there are numerous water sports just waiting to be enjoyed! Apart from swimming and snorkelling, you can ride the waves on a jet ski, or take a leisurely paddle in a kayak. Hone those water-skiing skills, go sailing, bounce about on a banana boat or learn to kite-board. How about a spot of fishing? Local companies will organise a day on the bay, and even BBQ your catch for you!
6. Visit the Secret Buddha Garden
Nestled at the end of a dirt track in the middle of the island is a whimsical sculpture park. Curated by retired durian farmer Khun Nim Thongsuk, the garden is home to a range of wonderful sculptures, all in a lush jungle setting. Bear in mind that you will likely need a 4×4 to access this site – the steep, bumpy road is not suitable for normal vehicles.
7. Pamper Yourself at a World Class Spa
Samui has plenty of upmarket spa complexes dotted around the island. While prices here are more expensive than a beach massage, they are still a fraction of the price you would expect to pay at home. The standard of many of these spas is world-class, and various packages are available for those who want to pamper themselves.
To make sure you don’t get more than you bargained for, make sure you check the reviews of the place you are considering visiting in advance. Some of the most popular spas will likely have no availability for walk-in customers so you may need to book your treatment ahead of time.
8. Get Your Blood Pumping with More Adventure
If you’re the type of person who needs an adrenaline rush now and then, you’ll be pleased to read that Koh Samui has many adventure activities on offer. Bungy jumping and canopy riding will give you an exhilarating view of the island, whilst paintball, go-karting, Frisbee, golf and mountain biking will release some of that tension!
Tourist Trap Warning!
Kai, a seasoned traveller and South East Asia Backpacker contributor, shared their experience of stumbling into a tourist trap on Koh Samui. If you find yourself somewhere you don’t want to be, don’t be afraid to leave!
“I somehow found myself in an area labelled as ‘Monkey Show: 9 am–5 pm’. Monkeys were leashed up next to stockpiles of coconuts with tip jars in front.”
9. Motorbike Around the Island
Hiring a motorbike is by far the most popular way to get around the island of Samui. Assuming that you are a competent rider, you should have little difficulty navigating the wide ring road which connects the island’s main areas.
Be aware that the roads can be quite busy with songthaews and taxis, especially around the main population centres. Pretty much all the main attractions can be reached by motorbike but for two-wheeled enthusiasts, the act of getting from A to B is a joy in itself.
10. Visit the Big Buddha
Located in the northeastern corner of the island, the enormous majestic Buddha statue sits on a rock overlooking the sea. Wat Phra Yai, or the Big Buddha Temple as it is known, was built in 1972 and has been a popular attraction ever since. If you’ve just come off the beach, be sure to cover your legs and shoulders before visiting this Buddhist site – it is important to be respectful of the local culture!
11. Enrol in a Fitness Camp
If you’re looking for a beautiful setting in which to shape up and get your blood pumping, Koh Samui could just be it! Thailand is home to some great fitness retreats, including our favourites KohFit and FitKoh, both located on the island of Koh Samui!
Offering everything from yoga to Muay Thai and circuits, you’re sure to find a camp that suits you – no matter your interests and ability. See fitness retreats in Southeast Asia here.
12. Shop ’Til You Drop
From famous replica watches to fake designer labels, you’ll find it all on Koh Samui! As the number of visitors coming to Samui increases, so do the number of shops and stalls selling bootleg versions of the finest things money can buy! As well as fake designer goods, you can also purchase your usual backpacker garb here, not to mention a range of traditional Thai souvenirs. Chirping wooden frog anyone?
13. Visit Racha Thammaram Temple
Racha Thammaram Temple, located in Lamai, is unique in its terracotta colour, which comes from the local soil. There is no other temple in this exact, meaty, clay colour in Southern Asia. The design and architecture were created by local artisans. It sits next to a golden pagoda with enshrined relics from Sri Lanka.
There is a flying insect that guards this pagoda – a black carpenter bee so huge it could be mistaken for a hummingbird! It’s harmless, but get too close to the graves and it will circle for your head. Hives often have one bee outside on guard duty. Take this as your warning!
14. Visit the Mummy of Luang Pho Dang
If you’re looking for something a little different, away from the beach clubs and McDonald’s, check out the Mummy of Luang Pho Dang. This Buddhist monk died while he was meditating at the grand age of 79.
Now more than 20 years after his death, his body is still incredibly well-preserved and makes for a quirky attraction on Koh Samui. To avoid disturbing visitors, the monks in charge of maintaining the site have popped a pair of sunglasses on him – leading to his comical appearance. Legend has it that the decaying eye sockets were freaking people out. In death, he completes the circle of life, his body having become a hatchery for lizards, that lay their eggs beneath his skin.
Food and Drink on Koh Samui 🍜
One of the things that attracts people to Koh Samui is the nightlife. Chaweng and Lamai are the two main entertainment hubs, home to everything from vibrant nightclubs, sports bars, live music venues, karaoke bars and cosy pubs. Whatever your idea of a fun night out is, you’ll find it here!
Be aware though, that the Koh Samui nightlife scene is also a little seedy. You’ll find plenty of red-light clubs and bars in both Lamai and Chaweng. They are generally pretty obvious but the groups of Farang lads hanging about (particularly those on stag dos) make it obvious when you are passing one.
Of course, before you head out for a night on the town, you’ll want to eat! Again, whatever your taste, Samui has it. The majority of the smaller Thai-run cafés and restaurants (and even the tiny food stalls) have excellent food at unbelievably cheap prices, so your budget doesn’t have to take too much of a beating. Of course, you’ll find the most budget-friendly eats on the street – check out the Lamai Night Market.
Supattra is a more expensive but worthwhile dining option for those looking to treat themselves. Located in Bophut, the carefully curated menu is sure to offer a different take on many of your Thai favourites. It’s worth the hype!
There’s no doubt about it, even most culturally immersed travellers need a taste of home sometimes. If you’re craving some European cuisine, Fi Greek Restaurant and Deli is one of the best options on the island. Don’t miss the souvlaki.
Nestled away close to the Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks in Lamai lies Rock Bar, a reggae-style beach bar. While it won’t be to all tastes, this is a great place to come for fire shows, tasty western dishes and a laidback vibe.
Mekong Fusion is a great option if you’re looking for a twist on traditional Thai food. Serving a mixture of Southeast Asian fusion cuisine, you’ll get all your noodle cravings satiated here!
Getting Around Koh Samui 🏍️
Much like other Thai islands, it is harder to get around Koh Samui than you might think. While Grab does function here, there are fewer drivers (many of them double up as taxi drivers) and rides are more expensive than on the mainland. There are also taxis and motorbike taxis.
Songthaews are the island’s answer to public transport. Essentially open-backed trucks, they circle the island along the main road, dropping people off en route. A songthaew is the cheapest way to get around Koh Samui. Make sure you double-check which way the driver is going before you hop in!
The best way to explore the island is by bike. Motorcycle rental is available all over the island, just make sure that you have the relevant license and travel insurance that covers motorcycle use. You’ll also likely need an International Driving Permit or your insurance may be invalid and not pay out in case of an accident!
If you’re staying in the heart of one of Koh Samui’s main districts, you may find several sights and beaches within walking distance, however, this will depend on where you are based.
How to Get to Koh Samui 🚢
Air: Bangkok Airways offers numerous daily flights from Bangkok directly to Koh Samui. The flight only takes around an hour and a half, so it’s very convenient. AirAsia also operates flights from Bangkok to Surat Thani.
Bus: Overnight buses depart from Bangkok’s tourist hub Khao San Road every evening around 7 pm. The cost is about 1,400 baht (approx. $38USD) for a bus ticket to Surat Thani, including the ferry to the island of Koh Samui. The journey in total takes around 15 hours.
Train: You can take an overnight train from Bangkok’s main train station, Hua Lamphong. The train goes direct to Surat Thani taking around 12 hours. From here, you can get the ferry from Surat Thani to Koh Samui. (Around 1.5 hours)
Where to Go Next:
- Koh Phangan: KP is so much more than the moon parties that made it famous. Gorgeous beaches, untouched rainforest and a keen spiritual vibe with yoga, meditation, Reiki and much more.
- Koh Tao: A beautiful gem of an island, just an hour’s ferry journey from Koh Phangan. Many backpackers learn how to dive here as packages offer incredible value for money.
- Ang Thong Marine Park: This can be visited in a day from Koh Phangan. Cast your eyes on the natural lagoon or camp out.
Contributors:
South East Asia Backpacker is a ‘travel diary for everyone’. This article has been written with the help of backpackers and local experts. We would like to thank…
- 🙏 Nikki | Founder of South East Asia Backpacker
- 🙏 Tim | Writer at South East Asia Backpacker
- 🙏 Kai | South East Asia Backpacker Contributor
- 🙏 Matt | South East Asia Backpacker Contributor
Sheree Hooker | Editor @ South East Asia Backpacker + Winging The World
Sheree is the awkward British wanderluster behind Winging The World, a blog designed to show that even the most useless of us can travel. Follow Sheree’s adventures as she blunders around the globe, falling into squat toilets, getting into cars with machete men and running away from angry peacocks. In recent years, Sheree has also taken on the role of editor at South East Asia Backpacker.