As a traveller, it’s always so easy to want things to stay as they are. In the Kelabit Highlands, you can feel the old traditions fade, as slowly and methodically as the sun sinks behind the mountain ranges, leaving the sky a vast painting of pastel pinks and reds, and turning the entire landscape into a vision so captivatingly beautiful that it barely seems real. This is a land touched by missionaries, globalization, and a growing technological influence. Karen Farini talks to local residences in order to better understand their perspectives on the cultural changes taking place.