The Four Thousand Islands is a charming laidback archipelago at the foot of Laos, close to the Cambodian border. As the name suggests, it consists of lots of tiny islets and sandbanks scattered in the vast Mekong River.
Also referred to as ‘Si Phan Don’ in Lao, most of the islands are uninhabited, too tiny for roads, and the area has not long had electricity! It’s a glowing contrast to the tourist traps of Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang.
Many travellers skip this destination due to the long and unappealing bus trip from the capital via Pakse, but we’re here to tell you – it’s well worth the squashed overnight journey!
4000 Islands (Si Phan Don), Laos – Travel Guide
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Si Phan Don Map & Resources
MORE INFO: (opens in a new tab)
- 🇱🇦 Laos Backpacking Guide
- 💰 Cost of Travel in Laos
- 📍 Nearby places: Pakse | Champasak | Stung Treng
- 🛶 Must-do activity: Kayak the 4000 Islands
Best Time to Visit the Four Thousand Islands
The best time to visit Si Phan Don is during the dry months (December-April/May), which also coincides with peak tourist season. During this time, the days are sunny and it rarely rains. This is the perfect time to take part in outdoor activities such as cycling and kayaking.

We recommend avoiding the Four Thousand Islands between August and November because this is the monsoon season. Flooding can make it difficult to access the islands and some outdoor activities become impossible due to heavy rainfall.
Malaria Risk 🦟
Anti-malaria tablets are advised for travellers to the Four Thousand Islands as there is a higher risk of contracting malaria here than in other parts of Laos and Southeast Asia.
Where to Stay in the Four Thousand Islands
Don Det – Best for Backpackers!
Disembarking the minivan bleary-eyed, you’ll board a crammed long boat for the very short journey across to Don Det, the main place to stay for backpackers. Wandering through the main street, you’ll realise just how chilled out this place is. It’s like time slows down and your pace starts to match.
Accommodation in Don Det spans a range of budgets and you can bag yourself a bungalow overlooking glorious sunsets on the river for next to nothing. There are a number of accommodations to choose from when you arrive and booking in advance isn’t essential. It only takes a 10-minute walk from the pier before you can find yourself a great riverside bungalow for a very reasonable price!
Tip – Try to get a river-facing room, as the sunsets here are amazing. There’s nothing quite like relaxing in a hammock and watching the sun disappear, leaving a beautiful pink-coloured sky.

Don Khon – Ideal for Families!
Connected to Don Det by a bridge, the neighbouring island of Don Khon (sometimes called Don Khone) is the larger of the two, offering a more quiet experience. While you’ll still near plenty of restaurants and guesthouses, this island is more laidback and doesn’t have the same ‘happy’ culture of Don Det (read more here). If you’re travelling as a family, this is the best place to base yourself.
Don Khong – Lesser Known Island!
Don Khong is the largest island in Si Phan Don and is commonly confused with Don Khon. It sits further north and is much less visited than either of the islands mentioned above. As there are fewer tourists and less competition, accommodation options don’t seem to have an online presence. This means that travellers can turn up without a reservation and negotiate for a room when they arrive.
Top Accommodation in the Four Thousand Islands
Offering just three rooms, all with air conditioning and fans – this is a clean and comfortable base on Don Det. The best thing about Namknong is the location, the decking boasts the best sunset views on the island! Even if you don’t stay here, be sure to spend at least one evening sipping a beer in their bar and watching the orange sun set over the river. The food at the restaurant is also fantastic, we recommend the Lao Laap!

If you’re looking for a good value premium option, head to BABA Guesthouse! With spotless rooms, big balconies and river views, this welcoming guesthouse is one of the best options in town. The WiFi can be a bit hit or miss but with sunset views like this, you’d be crazy to waste time staring at a screen anyway!
A short walk from the main hub and ferry port is Crazy Gecko – another of Don Det’s iconic riverside bungalows. Breakfast and bicycle rental are both available at the property, and guests love the friendly owner and staff.
Easy Go Backpackers
Cheap and cheerful, Easy Go Backpackers has a bar, beach and BBQ area. Rooms and dorm beds are basic (and sometimes a little rundown), but this is reflected in the prices. It’s a little far from the main restaurants and ferry drop-off, but bicycles are easy to rent to get around. Check the reviews before booking here so you know what to expect, but if you don’t mind basic beds for a tiny price tag then you’re looking at the right place.
Mama Leuah
In a quiet spot alongside the Mekong, Mama Leuah not only has a lovely restaurant but also provides accommodation in the form of quaint wooden bungalows. Each room is on the riverside and has a balcony – the perfect place to relax in a hammock for the day.

Moon by Night provides private stone bungalows with a fridge and patio opposite the river. Guests frequently mention the helpfulness and friendliness of the owner Darren, who has lived on the island for 20 years and makes a stay at Moon by Night hassle-free and memorable. It gets top marks for location, staff and comfort!
Pomelo Restaurant and Guesthouse
If you’re looking to get out of the tourist hustle, look no further than Pomelo Restaurant and Guesthouse. Located in the south of the island with views out to Cambodia, this place offers an idyllic stay in a beautiful bungalow. It is the perfect accommodation for nature lovers looking to relax.
This is a great option for travellers on a budget who prefer to use Don Khon as a base. While the bungalows are not the newest, they are well-maintained and have decent facilities. Bike rental is available from the property at a good price and the onsite restaurant is well-rated by guests. Note that despite its name, not all rooms offer riverside views.
Offering spacious and clean rooms, this hotel is a traveller favourite. The staff are super helpful, arranging everything from airport transfer to tours. There is a swimming pool, however, it could be a little cleaner. Breakfast is included in the rate.

Situated close to Don Khon Pier, this resort is ideally located for travellers with bulky luggage. There is a great onsite restaurant offering traditional Lao cuisine that overlooks the river. The rooms are large for the price and guests love the chilled out vibe. The owner, Tai, is super friendly and can help with onward travel.
Things to Do in the 4000 Islands, Laos
1. Go on a Kayaking Trip and see Southeast Asia’a Largest Waterfall
This is one of the most popular things to do in the 4000 islands and with good reason. Collected from the main street, you are driven out to a section of the river to spend the morning kayaking through impressive scenery with Cambodia on your right and Laos on your left!
Several companies run kayaking tours on Don Det, but we recommend Green Paradise Travel. On a full-day kayaking tour, you’ll get to explore the hidden waterways of the Mekong, see water buffalo eye to eye cooling off in the shallows and marvel at some beautiful waterfalls including Li Pi Falls and the largest in Southeast Asia: Khone Phapheng Falls. Book your 4000 Islands kayaking trip here.
Irrawaddy Dolphins 🐬
If you visit Don Det or Don Khon, you’ll likely come across signs advertising kayaking trips to see Irrawaddy dolphins near the Cambodian border. However, as of 2022, these dolphins are sadly extinct in Laos. Unfortunately, some tour agencies still claim otherwise—don’t be fooled. If seeing the dolphins is a priority for you, your best option is to visit Kratie in Cambodia, where small numbers can still be found. Read more about seeing the Irrawaddy dolphins in Cambodia here.

2. Do a Fishing Trip
Book a fishing trip along the main street and get picked up on what can only be described as a party boat. So out of sync with the vibe here, the beach’s occupants will find it amusing to see a neon-lit boat approaching, blaring out cheesy pop tunes.
Heading out into the Mekong, it’s fairly easy to catch a few fish which then get barbecued along with some pre-bought meat. Relaxing on deck with a beer (BYO) and a full belly of fresh fish is a satisfying end to the day. These trips start at around 200,000 kip (approx. $9USD) per person.
3. Rent a Bike and Cycle around Don Det and Don Khon
One of the best ways to spend the day is to rent a bicycle and explore. Bikes can be rented from almost anywhere on either island and cost from 25,000 kip (approx. $1USD) for the entire day!
You’ll find yourself winding down riverside pathways and palm tree-lined lanes, and there’s many a café to stop at and have a drink to cool down – we recommend Kea’s Backpackers Paradise Bar and Restaurant. The mint and lime shakes are super refreshing!
Don Khon is connected to Don Det via a bridge. Although they both offer the same laid-back vibe, it is well worth going to both. There are a few attractions in Don Khon including the old French railway and some impressive waterfalls (see below).
Prices in Laos 🇱🇦
Laos has been going through a period of heavy inflation since COVID-19, up to 50% per year. As such, prices change fast. For travellers, not much is changing in real terms. If something cost $10USD before COVID, it still costs about $10USD now. However, before COVID, $10USD was around 80,000 kip. In 2025, that same $10USD is worth more than 200,000 kip. That’s why a lot of Laos’ pricing on the internet is wrong. The kip is getting weaker, so prices have to go up to reflect this. The amount it costs us as travellers is the same as it’s always been but for locals, inflation like this is scary. Always make sure to check the latest conversions before you travel.

4. Visit Li Phi Somphamit Falls and Khone Pa Soy Waterfall
Both of these waterfalls are easily accessible from Don Det and are frequently visited by bike. It is possible to walk to them too, though you’ll need to prepare for a long hot day of hiking––don’t forget the suncream!
Li Phi Falls is the most touristy of the two. There is a series of suspension bridges and zip lines here which provide excellent views of the cascading water. Tickets are a little pricey by Laos standards however, the views are certainly impressive. Expect to pay around 250,000 kip per person (approx. $12USD) for bridge access around $30USD for the zip lines. Standard entry is 30,000 kip (approx. $1.50USD) each.

Khone Pay Soy Waterfall, not to be confused with Khone Phapheng Falls close to Don Phapheng (mentioned earlier), is the other waterfall on Don Khon. Costing 20,000 kip per person (approx. $1USD), there is more freedom to explore here with a few different paths leading to viewpoints. Bring swim stuff to enjoy the secluded beaches nearby.
5. Relax
Lie in a hammock and read a book. Take a walk. Have a snooze by the river. The Four Thousand Islands is the place to relax without feeling guilty – in fact, it’s designed for it. For a cheeky swim, check out Limit Free Beach or Nature Beach.
6. Go to a Beach Party
Everything on Don Det shuts before midnight, often around 10 pm. So almost every night, backpackers congregate on the beach to light a campfire and socialise over a few beers. You won’t find anything too crazy, likely just the relaxing sound of chatter and guitar playing.

7. Go Tubing
A number of local tour outfitters offer tubing tours around Don Det. Unlike the tubing of old that Vang Vieng was famous for, this is generally a more chilled affair. A trip in an inner tube along the river takes around two hours and starts at 150,000 kip (approx. $7USD) per person.
Have a Happy Time! Or Not… 🍄
The Four Thousand Islands and especially Don Det, have a laidback ‘happy’ culture, with some local businesses taking a lax approach to recreational drugs. Though not as widespread as during the backpacking golden age, you can still find a variety of ‘happy’ food and drinks, often infused with cannabis or mushrooms. While we didn’t see this in Don Det, happy tea in Laos can sometimes even contain opium! We strongly advise travellers to exercise caution when it comes to drug use in Southeast Asia. Despite the open advertising, these substances are illegal in Laos, and the penalties for possession can be severe.

8. Watch the Sunset
The Four Thousand Islands are home to some of the best sunsets in Southeast Asia. Head down to any waterfront property on the west side of Don Det to watch the swallows dive and the sky turns crimson. Tip: the view is somehow even better with a Beerlao IPA in hand.

For more about Don Det and the Four Thousand Islands read our article – Been there, Don Det.
Food and Drink in Don Det and Don Khon
From the usual Asian fare to Western food and fresh fish, we ate well on the islands. Don’t expect fast food––‘Laos time’ is the speed at which you’ll receive your meal!
Mama Leuah
Owned by German-born Lutz and his wife Pheng, Mama Leuah is a family business that offers delicious European and Asian dishes. The cosy surroundings with beautiful views of the Mekong River make this the perfect place to take a break from exploring the island.

Emily’s Noodle Restaurant
One of the most popular places to eat in Don Khon, this unassuming restaurant offers all the classic Lao dishes plus a few Western favourites. Boasting fresh ingredients, good value for money and friendly staff, everything we tried was delicious.
Reggae Bar
Looking for wood-fired pizza? Look no further than Reggae Bar! The pizza here might take some time to get to your table, but it’s so good! They also serve classic Asian dishes and other Western food and you can make pretty much anything ‘happy’ (even the mashed potato) if that’s what you’re into! Located on the riverside near the ferry port, try and arrive before 7 pm. After this time, hundreds of river flies descend on every light fitting and we’re sure you’d prefer your pizza without a side of insects!

Drinking Water in the 4000 Islands 💧
As you likely already know, you can’t drink the tap water in Laos and most accommodations in the Four Thousand Islands do not provide unlimited drinking water. While you can use a water filter if you have one, the water quality isn’t great and this can reduce the lifespan of your filter. Luckily, a few businesses offer refills for just a few thousand kip.
Jasmine Restaurant and Hathim Indian Restaurant
Both of these little places do similar dishes and are cheap. The food here is just the thing to satisfy your curry cravings when you’d like a change from the standard asian fried noodles and rice! They’re owned by super friendly Indian couples (so you know you’re getting authentic food) and are located not far from Don Det Pier. Both offer good choices for veggies and vegans.
Sabaidee Restaurant
Are you even in Laos if you don’t dine in at least one restaurant called Sabaidee? Located on Don Khon, this family-run gem is famous for its homemade bread—so good it could rival the best French bakeries! With delicious sandwiches and a stunning view, it’s the perfect place to relax and refuel.
Mama Tanon
Owned by a lovely expat couple, this restaurant is welcoming with chilled vibes and inspirational quotes adorning the walls. They also offer accommodation. You can get water refills here for around 5,000 kip. The food is yummy – a decent breakfast is available and they also serve a variety of western and Laotian dishes.

Good to Know!
There are no ATMs on Don Det or Don Khon so make sure you get enough money out before making the journey. While some accommodations accept card, this usually comes with additional fees. If you get desperate, some properties near the pier offer a cashback service but this comes with at least a 6% fee.
Getting Around the Four Thousand Islands
If you’re travelling to Si Phan Don, you will easily be able to rent a bicycle or moped to get around. Bicycle rental is the cheapest, starting at around 25,000 kip (around $1USD) for the day. If you don’t mind slogging around in the heat, it is also possible to walk to the main attractions on both islands. Don’t forget sun protection!
Getting to the Four Thousand Islands:
The Four Thousand Islands can only be accessed by bus/van and boat. Book an overnight bus from the capital, Vientiane, which stops at Pakse before continuing onboard a minibus to Don Det or Don Khon. Try to insist on a VIP bus as these seem to have more room – the two-person shared spaces can be extremely cosy, which can be a touch awkward with a stranger!

Pakse to Don Det or Don Khon can be done with a minivan/ferry combo ticket, costing around 170,000 kip (approx. $8USD). Once the bus has dropped you off, head to the pier where you’ll show your ticket and be directed to a long-tail boat which will take you over to the northern point of Don Det Island. It takes around 3.5 hours to get to Don Det from Pakse.
Several minivan companies run transfers between Siem Reap in Cambodia to Don Det and Don Khon but Asia Van Transfer (AVT) seems to be the most popular. The journey takes around 8 hours (but can take longer depending on how smoothly the border crossing goes) and can be booked on the 12go.asia website. Expect a basic minivan and a bumpy journey, yet helpful drivers.
If you want to visit the lesser-known Don Khong, take a songthaew from Pakse Bus Terminal in the morning. It takes around 2.5 hours to make the journey to Ban Hat Xai Khoun where you can take a boat across to the island. Bear in mind that this is the road less travelled––you won’t find hordes of backpackers here!
Where to Go Next:
Pakse: It’s super easy to book a bus/boat combo ticket on the island and it costs around 170,000 kip (approx. $8USD). There isn’t much to do in the city other than wander around, see a few temples, and embark on the famous motorcycle loop. The real draw of this place is that it’s a launching point for visiting Wat Phu, an often-passed-over UNESCO site that’s well worth the visit.
Phonsavan and The Plain of Jars: A windswept dusty town in Central Laos, Phonsavan is infamous for being a place which was devastated by bombs during the American-Vietnam War. It’s also known for the mysterious giant jars scattered across the countryside…
Vientiane: If you’ve come from Cambodia, head north to Vientiane to explore Laos’ sleepy capital (yes everything is rather sleepy in Laos!), and the gateway to the northern mountains…
Cambodia: The 4000 islands are so close to the Cambodian border that it’s super easy to get to a range of cities, including Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. Many tour agencies in Don Det and Don Khon offer this.